The secondhand fashion market is experiencing unprecedented growth, yet this surge is accompanied by a significant increase in textile waste. In Ghana, Kantamanto Market, one of the largest circular fashion ecosystems, is grappling with the environmental impact of this boom. Despite the noble intentions behind resale platforms, the reality on the ground reveals troubling consequences for communities receiving these imported garments.
According to the French Fashion Institute, peer-to-peer marketplace Vinted has become the largest retailer in France by sales volume. In the United States, secondhand purchases accounted for 33% of all clothing acquisitions in the past year, with the market value reaching an estimated $56 billion, as reported by Capital One Shopping. Such figures reflect a growing consumer awareness of sustainability, yet the influx of low-quality clothing threatens to undermine the very principles of circular fashion.
The situation worsens as high-quality secondhand garments are increasingly siphoned off by markets in the Global North. This leaves retailers in the Global South, like those at Kantamanto Market, with a flood of unsellable items. “In blunt terms, the Global South is a dumping ground for the Global North,” states Andrew Rough, chief executive of the Scottish circular fashion hub ACS. The market in Ghana receives around 15 million items of used clothing weekly, many of which arrive as waste.
Consequences of the Resale Boom
The growth of fast fashion has intensified the challenges faced by secondhand markets. Rough’s observations during a visit to Kantamanto Market highlighted the social and environmental devastation tied to these clothing imports. While the market has historically relied on the trade of pre-loved garments, the current landscape is overwhelmed by poor-quality items that complicate the recirculation process.
Associations focused on textile recycling in the Global North have reported difficulties in managing secondhand profits due to the influx of low-value clothing. Many operations have entered administration as warehouses fill with garments lacking clear utility. “Communities like Kantamanto are experiencing this crisis first; now, collectors and sorters in the Global North are facing similar challenges,” notes Liz Ricketts, co-founder of The Or Foundation, a non-profit working in Kantamanto Market.
Sorting practices are often misguided, with garments collected in the Global North funneled through charity shops before being sent abroad. The best quality items are typically exported to Eastern Europe, while the rest, labeled as “Africa grade,” find their way to the Global South. This system, criticized for its inefficiency, often results in low-quality clothing entering markets that have limited capacity to manage such waste.
The Or Foundation recently hosted an event in London to demonstrate the flaws in this sorting process. Participants were tasked with grading secondhand clothing brought from Ghana, only to find that local retailers could more accurately assess the items in mere seconds. Statistics from The Or Foundation indicate that only 18% of bales arriving in Ghana qualify as first selection, while the rest consists of lower-quality garments or outright waste.
Seeking Solutions Through Global Solidarity
The rise of fast fashion has exacerbated existing inequalities in the secondhand clothing industry. Only 10% of new clothing produced meets the quality standards necessary for resale, a situation compounded by the growing number of secondhand platforms in the Global North vying for high-quality items. Ricketts emphasizes that this trend leaves communities like Kantamanto struggling to find viable products amidst a sea of low-quality donations.
Efforts to foster collaboration between the Global North and South have been limited. Ricketts advocates for greater transparency regarding operating costs in the secondhand market, hoping to cultivate a sense of solidarity that acknowledges the value of ecosystems like Kantamanto. She believes this collective approach could lead to sustainable solutions to the ongoing crisis.
The path forward remains uncertain. Some sellers in Kantamanto suggest that individuals in the Global North should discard low-quality goods locally rather than exporting them, allowing only higher-quality items to be donated. Others propose amending extended producer responsibility legislation to ensure funds are allocated to countries facing the realities of fashion waste.
The global secondhand clothing trade faces significant challenges. As the market evolves, it is crucial for stakeholders to engage in meaningful dialogue that addresses the imbalances within this complex system. Only through collaboration and a shared commitment to sustainability can the industry hope to navigate the intricate dynamics of textile waste and secondhand commerce.
